From Cordoba to Cafayate & Quebrada de las Conchas

Having left Cordoba behind, my next stop would be Cafayate; the second wine capital of Argentina after Mendoza. On my way, I spent one night in Tafi del Valle, a small village sitting at around 1.700m, which besides the recommendations I had, did not really prove to be anything extraordinary. The weather did not help certainly, but honestly apart from a long walk around an uninspiring lake, with an unexpected companiero, nothing special in this place...

this little guy walked with me for 18km....great companion !

Thankfully, there is an almost direct bus service from Tafi to Cafayate, stopping only at Tucuman, which was not on my list of to-visit places. The bus ride was about 6h and arrived at Cafayate at around 2pm.

From Cordoba to Cafayate

a day that started like this.....

......and after a few hours became so great. Still at over 2.400m 

After sorting a misunderstanding with the hostel I had booked and dealing with their rudeness, I looked around and found a really nice, family-run place with really kind and friendly owners....they didn't speak any English, and had no internet access, but we managed just fine. Don Jorge had a really nice selection of antiques and was really proud of it....

Don Jorge's common area....I was the only guest at the hostel :))

Cafayate is so much different from the rest of Argentina I have seen so far. In more than one ways.... 

It is the first town that you start meeting non-european characteristics people. Genuinely kind and friendly. Prices are very much down to earth and the quality of services and food were more than adequate....what more could I ask? I had planned to stay 2 days but I enjoyed it so much, that made it 4 without any second thoughts.

my favorite snack for just 0,50 euros :)

great wall paintings all over

They really love cycling in this city....at all ages

Hundreds of bikes everywhere....all unlocked!!!

playstation is not here....kids play outside

sandy pitch? never mind...they love football

One thing you immediately realize in Cafayate is that the weather is considerably more dry and warm than in Cordoba for example. The soil is much more sandy and the vegetation is....different. You start to see a lot of cactus trees and kind of deserted landscapes. I am no expert but maybe that's the reason for making such fine wine over here.
I spend one afternoon in visiting the Quebrada de las Conchas which is an impressive canyon with several hotspots that introduces the visitor to the landscapes to follow as he moves further north to the country.

This is the famous Garganta del Diablo (Devil's throat)
Takes a bit of climbing to get to the top but offers a nice view.....of others trying to climb to the top :))

One more reason for Cafayate to be known is that is a popular stopover for motorbikers who are riding through the legendary Ruta 40, which is a national road, largely unpaved (aka fun!). Starts from Patagonia (Rio Callegos) and reaches the borders of Argentina with Bolivia (La Quiaca). Total distance: 5.200km approx. & altitudes ranging from sea level to over 3.000m in some sections. Need to say more??.....every motorbiker's dream route !!!

Suerte !

A very special post for a very special place - Alta Gracia

Alta Gracia is a small town about 30km south of Cordoba. Buses depart every 15' from the bus station, so getting there is really easy. Apart from the Jesuits related history of this place, which dates from back in the 17th century, with very well preserved Jesuit museums, vineyards and estancias, I visited Alta Gracia for one and only reason: This is where Ernesto "Che" Guevara lived his early years. More specifically from the age of 4 until he became 15. The dry climate of Alta Gracia was perfect for the asthma attacks he so often had. 

The place where he grew up is converted to a brilliant museum with many of his personal belongings, notes, letters, pictures, newspaper clippings, etc.

VILLANYDIA at Calle Avellaneda 501.
This is where the young "Tete" grew up to become Commandate "Che" Guevara

Everything in the museum is put in chronological order. From Ernesto's early years in primary school, to his motorcycle trip with his friend and his days with Fidel Castro. 

Che is a legend for Argentinians and it was the most striking moment in my trip so far, to see people reading his letters to his kids just before he got killed, and not being able to hold their tears....  

"A mis higos" - To my kids

Dear Hildita, Aleidita, Camilo, Celia and Ernesto:

If you ever have to read this letter, it will be because I am no longer among you. You will almost not remember me and the littlest ones will remember nothing at all. Your father has been a man who acted according to his beliefs and certainly has been faithful to his convictions.

Grow up as good revolutionaries. Study hard to be able to dominate the techniques that permit the domination of nature. Remember that the Revolution is what is important and that each of us, on our own, is worthless.

Above all, try always to be able to feel deeply any injustice committed against any person in any part of the world. It is the most beautiful quality of a revolutionary.

Until always, little children. I still hope to see you again. 

A really big kiss and a hug from Papa.

Ernesto Guevara's student ID in Medicine School

With his bicicleta

The type of his legendary motocicleta

and voila....it was there !!!

Pictures from Fidel Castro's and Hugo Chavez' visit in Alta Gracia, in 2004

Epilogue:

At the midlands of Argentina: Mendoza - Cordoba

Next stop: Mendoza
There are many crossing points between Argentina and Chile and the most impressive of them involve travelling over the Andes at altitudes well over 3.000m. Possibly the most breathtaking one is when going from Santiago de Chile to Mendoza. Thankfully, there is also a direct service from Valparaisso, which takes around 9h, by bus as usual :)

already at +2.500m altitude and going up....to the highest point of 3.300m

.....through very, very twisty roads full of trucks & buses, overtaking like crazy !!!

Aconcagua is visible only for a few seconds during the bus ride.
At 6.962m is the second tallest peak after Everest.

Temperature difference was a pleasant surprise. The Andes sierra separating Chile and Argentina cuts most of the cool air and humidity coming from the Pacific Ocean, which translates in 8-10 deg.C of temperature difference between Valparaiso & Mendoza. I checked in at Lao Hostel, a very popular choice among backpackers and for a very good reason. Nicely located, with very helpful staff and a welcoming backgarden.

They didn't have available rooms the first night, so that's where I slept....cannot complain really :)

Although there are a lot of things to do around here that can keep you busy for at least a week, like horse riding, rafting, trekking, etc, what really made Mendoza famous is its vineyards. Malbec is a grape variety, originated in France, producing some really fine, complex tasting, very dark colored, red wine.

The latest excellent year of Malbec produce in Argentina was 2004.

The altitude of Mendoza at 800m above sea level, the heat and dry climate of the region are ideal for Malbec grapes.
With over 20 large bodegas and many more smaller ones around Mendoza (mainly in Maipu area), a bike ride around is one of those not to be missed "activities". It takes most part of a day to get there and back, but is so much worth it. Not for the ride, but for getting back half-drunk :)

Even the best ones, fail sometimes....

ghost train 

Mendoza really shines at night....;)

Cordoba

This is the second largest city in Argentina with population well over 3m people, however it manages somehow to keep all the fun and action in a very compact area.
After walking in the city for a while, it becomes obvious that some of the country's wealthiest families live here. Soya & corn corps are the main economic engines of this region, almost all of which goes straight to Rosario for export.
Not vastly overloaded with tourists, Cordoba manages to maintain its local character very successfully. It's a city in its own right and doesn't show any signs of dependency.

Some really worth visiting museums of contemporary and colonial style
can keep you busy for a whole day.

With no doubt, what makes this city set itself apart from the rest of the country is its enormous student population. Cordoba is the educational capital of Argentina with around 10 Universities of all possible disciplines. This directly translates to a very lively and vibrant nightlife for every taste.
From mainstrem clubs, to live stages and traditional argentinian music corners. One thing I have given up hope in Argentina is...coffee. I have yet to find a decent coffee shop. A simple, plain, nice, espresso shot...!
It is really strange because Argentinians do drink coffee. But for some reason they are used to that instant "black-extract-of-whatever-origin", with a Coffee label on the box.

that's what happens if siesta time finds you on the streets :)))

2nd & 3rd generation Greek-Argentinians learn Greek dances !!!!

 At Colectividad Helénica de Córdoba. The last Greek immigrant arrived in Cordoba in 1962

Just accross the road is the Orthodox Church. The hospitality I received was way beyond my expectations !!!

Preparing the church chorus for the night of Jesus Resurrection.
Only Mrs Georgalos speaks Greek, however, they will sing in Greek

Personally, I found Cordoba as appealing as Buenos Aires but much more compact in size. 
Everything you wish, you can find it here...theaters, opera houses, museums, open markets, adventure trips,....you name it. 
And the climate is great, at least during this time of the year.
I stayed in Cordoba for 4 days in total and I enjoyed every single one f them. I could easily stay longer if I had the time.
But I have to move further north to the NorthWest part of Argentina...a region so much different from the rest of the country.
Stay tuned!!